Joy Godfrey
Crazy train roll with spicy tuna and freshwater eel
Sushi chef Brent Jung is a visual artist. It's not that this food tastes unremarkable—it's really quite clean and balanced—but his plating and arranging brings extra joy to dining here. His caterpillar roll, for example, is embodied with such character that it recalls Richard Scarry's Lowly Worm with playful avocado markings and sprout antennae ($17). Get your regional fusion under control with a New Mexico roll that comes with shrimp tempura, crab, avocado, red pepper and, of course, green chile ($9). Catch him in the right mood, and he'll make your large party a row of sake bombs with a tableside bamboo trick and his shy grin. Together with his mother Hyunsook, Jung delivers Izmi's large portions of sashimi, a variety of fish for nigiri and traditional miso ($2) and seaweed along with rolls for miles. It's not sushi on a budget, but it won't leave you feeling like you blew too much either. Large windows onto Marcy Street help the small dining room breathe, though some people are still trying to find it following a 2011 relocation from its former home on St. Michael's Drive.
105 E Marcy St., 424-1311
Lunch Tuesday-Friday, dinner Tuesday-Sunday