Drink Like a Spaniard

If asked to name the most popular mixed drink in Spain, I bet most folks would guess sangría. To be honest, until a few years ago, I would have thought the same. However, would you believe the gin tonic (no "and") is sunny España's favorite libation?

While living in Spain, I had the honor of mixing a drink for renowned chef Ferran Adrià at the closing party for his restaurant, El Bulli. The fête occurred in a mansion overlooking the sea, and when the well-meaning hosts learned I worked in mixology, they offered me a turn at bringing the guest of honor a cocktail. Now, some may revel in such an opportunity. However, being a star-struck fan of his, my stomach dropped and my heart pounded! What does one make for a culinary god of his stature? Relief and surprise flooded my veins when he requested a gin tonic. As I chipped a ball out of a block of ice with a small axe kept in the fancy kitchen for such tasks (naturally), I inwardly marveled at the simple request from one of the most complex imaginations in modern cuisine.

But it shouldn't have been a surprise, really. In Spain, high-end establishments as well as casual neighborhood café bars have dedicated drink lists offering mix-and-match gins, tonics and garnishes to suit every taste. Gin, you see, is not a one-size-fits-all spirit. All must be macerated with juniper, to varying degrees. However, other botanicals can include spices, roots and citrus. Gin devotees tend to gravitate toward the juniper-heavy brands. However, newer initiates might dip their toes into the gin pond with products laced with floral notes such as Hendrick's (rose petals) or G'Vine (Ugni blanc, cabernet and merlot grapevine flowers).

Using tonic from the soda gun is a bit of a waste with fine gin, so Spanish bars often keep an array of bottled tonics, ensuring quality and consistency. Each brand of tonic also has its own flavor profile, highlighting or contrasting the essence of the gins. Like a wine-and-food pairing, the perfect gin-and-tonic combo can be achieved, punctuated by the garnish. Beyond a traditional lime, a slice of grapefruit, anise buttons, grapes, ginger or even olives are delightful, depending on the gin. Another renowned Spanish chef, José Andrés, shares his fragrant gin tonic at Bazaar, his restaurant in Los Angeles, featuring a large ice sphere, edible flowers and citrus zest.

Prior to its Spanish popularity, the gin and tonic was imbibed by the British Navy in the 1800s. Each sailor was given a gin ration along with tonic water, containing malaria-preventing quinine. The lime's vitamin C helped stave off scurvy. Today, the Spanish craze has hopped the pond, and personalized lists are available in more American bars. And worldwide culinary and cocktail conferences offer whole seminars on the topic.

So if you are entertaining during Spanish Market this week, consider ditching the sangría and offer a build-your-own spread of gins, tonics and garnishes. If anyone raises an eyebrow, tell them that it's what the best chefs in the world drink on their nights off. If that doesn't convince 'em, put out some wine and juice, and be done with it.

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