Oct. 23, 2014

This Week's SFR Picks

Newsletters

Choose your newsletter(s):
* indicates required
September 23, 2014 by Joey Peters  
October 7, 2014 by Joey Peters  
September 23, 2014 by Justin Horwath  
September 24, 2014 by Enrique Limón  
September 23, 2014 by Robert Basler  

SFR Events

Special Issues

 

 
Home / Articles / Food / Food Writing /  Morning, Sunshine!
food-sunrise-1
Son of a dish: Sunrise’s trademark parabolic.
Enrique Limón

Morning, Sunshine!

Sunrise Family Restaurant’s got huevos

May 28, 2013, 12:00 am
It’s 7 am on a Tuesday and the regulars at Sunrise Family Restaurant (1851 St. Michael’s Drive, 820-0643) are starting to trickle in.

I adhere to the suggestion stamped on a pink, phosphorescent sign and seat myself. Not a minute later, owner Rafael Aldana is at my booth with a menu.

Aldana took over the space—formerly an Irish bar by the name of Green Onion Tavern—two-and-a-half years ago. By his own admission, lunch is Sunshine’s forte, but he says their “classic breakfast plates” are tried and true.

I become mesmerized by the promise of plates like the chile relleno omelet ($7.99); the more-gangster-than-a-burrito breakfast quesadilla ($7.95) and—wait for it—the pancake sandwich: two buttermilk pancakes with sausage and an egg for $6.50. Intrigued, I opt for the sandwich and pair it with a glass of freshly squeezed OJ ($2.25) and a side of what apparently holds every other dish together—home potatoes ($2.50).

Aldana swiftly goes toward the kitchen and puts the order in. “De volada mijo, please,” he instructs the cook.

I take a minute to soak in the sights. Smiley ceramic suns commingle with heart decals left over from Valentine’s Day, and a prerequisite poster depiction of mighty warrior (and future volcano) Popocatépetl carrying princess Iztaccíhuatl proudly hangs.

Throw in a movie night to complete the trifecta, and Sunrise would be ripe for a special episode of the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.

Several remnants of the ol’ Grunion remain, like its wooden rails, Technicolor bottles of Jarritos and Fanta gingerly placed on mirror-backed shelves where the haunt’s former top-tier liquor once stood and, the pièce de résistance, a huge satellite dish, once adorned with a shamrock, is now transformed into a Paul Bunyan-sized bacon and eggs plate.  

It was created by Santa Fe Community College students who, according to Aldana, “were studying art or I don’t know what.” The budding, mysterious artists are also responsible for the establishment’s outdoor murals depicting New Mexico life.  

I’m sitting directly across from the cash register and a Snickers vending station emblazoned with the chocolate bar’s slogan, “You’re not you when you’re hungry.” The words have never rung truer.

My grub arrives fleetly and is fit for a rey.

I’m slightly disappointed that the sandwich is build-your-own, as the sausage patties and egg come on a separate plate, but flavor makes up for any preconceived county fair fantasy.  

The over-medium egg is just right, engulfing my sausage in yolky goo with one sharp stab. The taters have quite a kick to them, a result of equal amounts of seasoning salt and paprika. The pancakes? Absolute perfection. They looked like they were plucked from a Bisquick commercial. Fluffy and thick, they could be a full meal in themselves.

Continuing the royal treatment, Aldana brings over a salsa sampler plate containing fiery red and a stewy green that’s second to none.

I take my time, enjoying every savory, symphonic bite. Some 10 minutes into it, I began to feel like my old self again.

AT A GLANCE
Open: Daily, 7 am-3 pm
Serving: “Classic” breakfast with a punch
Order-up: Quicker than you can say “Popocatépetl”
Best bet: The pancake sandwich

 

comments powered by Disqus
 
Close
Close
Close