Pupusas were once my Proustian madeleine—a food that transported me so
instantly and completely back to El Salvador that I could swear I heard
roosters crowing and men hacking at trees with their machetes.
In the film Tiny Furniture, writer, director and budding indie phenom Lena Dunham plays Aura, a recent college grad struggling to find herself after having moved back into her childhood home in New York City.
With its brown and white walls, and sparse décor, CoCopelli Chocolatier
is tidy, but it feels a little one-dimensional, common. Only when I talk
to the owner, Lauren Roybal, does it open up, revealing hidden chambers
like a set of matryoshka dolls.
Food is a widespread cultural obsession concerned with a return to place, transforming the locavores’ demand for regionally derived ingredients into experimental, sociohistorical experiences on the plate.