***image1***Local breweries fight back invading hops hordes.
The beer aisle at Whole Foods is Santa Fe's sudsy equivalent of the United Nations general assembly. The cooler is a veritable Benetton ad intent on spanning cultural gaps one six-pack at a time.
Among the drunken dignitaries is Palma Louca, the alcoholic ambassador from Brazil. To her left is Tsingtao from China, Spaten from Germany and Blue Moon from Belgium. To the right is Singha from Thailand, Newcastle from England and Dos Equis from Mexico.
America the Beertiful is represented perhaps best of all. Those fabled amber waves of grain have been distilled into dozens of beers trickling down from purple mountains and fruited plains in states like Vermont, California, Colorado and Oregon. Alas, beer brewed in New Mexico comprises a mere drop in this melting pot of malted hops.
The number of interlock ignition systems installed weekly in this state can testify to the fact that its citizens enjoy imbibing libations. But save for a smattering of local staples, a resident would be hard pressed to find any enticing lagers from the Land of Enchantment sitting on the shelves of their local liquor store.
Instead a steady flow of out-of-state breweries have tapped New Mexico's discerning drinkers. And while California and Colorado brewers have had New Mexico on a bender for years, Oregon is the latest state to get on the wagon, so to speak.
Deschutes became the latest Beaver State brewing company to infiltrate New Mexico when it officially announced its presence here on June 23.
"Right out of the gate it's been amazing," Dave Wilson, the company's sales and marketing director, says. "We sold over 400 cases in the first two days. One guy was setting up a 30-case display at a store on the first day we were in the market and by the time he was done, six of those cases had walked out the door."
Deschutes is just the latest to travel an Oregon trail of beers blazed by companies like Rogue, Full Sail, Widmer and Bridgeport. But according to Paula Johnston, marketing manager at Bridgeport, it's the unique confluence of geography and demographics-not the fledgling New Mexico craft beer industry-that makes the state so attractive.
"We didn't look at New Mexico and say 'there's a void in the market that we can latch on to,'" Johnston says. "It's really more about it being a market where we feel the beer will be embraced. And it has been. We sold over 14,000 cases of beer in our first year there. Those are strong numbers."
Indeed. But insiders are wary of the ebb and flow of an industry that boomed and busted in the '90s. Which is why Wilson said he flew to New Mexico to see for himself what kind of sauce citizens were swilling.
"We had no idea what to expect," Wilson says. "When we visited the stores and saw Full Sail and Bridgeport and other companies on the shelves it was very refreshing. Those beers wouldn't be there if there wasn't consumers buying them."
Brian Lock is among those consumers. The president of the Santa Fe Brewing Company holds his latest Oregon competitor in high esteem.
"That's a company I definitely think very highly of," Lock says of Deschutes. "I've loved their Black Butte Porter for years. Now that they're here, it will be interesting to see how things play out."
Not that he's losing sleep over it.
"Initially we haven't seen a lot of impact from the infiltration of companies from places like Oregon," Lock says. "We've grown every year so I can't tell if that has affected my sales or not. It's tough to put a finger on that one. "
What he can put his finger on is that business is booming atop the New Mexico beer food chain. Santa Fe Brewing is in the midst of a large expansion that will result in a new restaurant and bottling operation by the end of the summer. Lock expects New Mexico companies like his will soon turn the tables on the invading hordes.
"I think you'll start to see New Mexico breweries really grow in the next few years," Lock says. "I hope to do what companies in Oregon and Washington have done in terms of making a product locally and expanding it into other markets."
Lock acknowledges there is, however, limited room to maneuver in the New Mexico craft beer industry. Existing powerhouses like Santa Fe Brewing and Sierra Blanca have a decided advantage over upstarts like Rio Grande and Tractor. But even as New Mexico scrambles to play catch up with surrounding states, Lock insists there is still no substitute for homegrown brew.
"I don't feel too threatened," Lock says. "A product brewed right here in Santa Fe is going to be a lot fresher than one that has to travel hundreds of miles to get here. Besides, our name has a lot of selling power. Anyone who visits New Mexico is going to want to try a local product before they try anything else."
***image2***BEER BRAWL
Good journalists are thorough, if nothing else, and we'd be remiss in our obligations if we didn't get a little snockered in the line of duty. Which is why we enlisted SFR interns Farren Stanley and Laura Parisi to rank New Mexico craft beers against their Oregon competitors. And (surprise!) our interns were more than willing to put their livers on the line in the name of sound journalistic principles. Let the tasting begin.
Santa Fe Pale
FS: It's hoppy, but it's got a funky aftertaste.
LP: I'd drink it. I mean, I wouldn't send it back.
Mirror Pond
LP: Oh, this is fruity [grimaces]. It has less of an after-taste and it's lighter, but that apricot taste is vile.
FS: Ooooh, I like it. It's light. I could drink it all night. It's chick beer.
Vote: Mirror Pond.
Bridgeport IPA
LP: Mmmmmm, I like it.
FS: [Pained look] Bitter, but better. It's medicinal. [Ed: "Like cough syrup?"]. If cough syrup tasted like bread.
Santa Fe Nut Brown
LP: Chocolatey.
FS: Coffee. I'm not a fan.
LP: I don't normally like stouty beers, but this one is pleasant. They make you fart a lot though.
Vote: Bridgeport IPA.
Dead Guy
LP: Wow. This one has quite the aroma. Smells like soy sauce.
FS: Oh my god.
LP: I'm not sure I'd want to drink an entire glass of it-I would die after two glasses-but I think I like it.
FS: It's…interesting.
Chicken Killer
FS: Smells kind of like apples.
LP: It tastes like a rotten orange. Did you piss in this one?
FS: It's kind of like a mixture of cider and beer. Not terrible, but I don't think I'd drink either of them.
Vote: Split.
Alien Amber
LP: Smells almond-y. Or as people around here say: "Ahhhl-mon-dee."
FS: Nice clean aftertaste. Good consistency.
Drop Top Amber
FS: It smells like cat litter…[pause]…tastes like it too. Cat piss. This is definitely the worst.
LP: It smells like moldy armpits. What does that do to your breath?
FS: Do you want to finish this?
LP: Nah, I'm okay. That was their mistake vat.
Vote: Alien Amber
Santa Fe Pale
FS: It's OK. Not remarkable.
LP: I was about to say the exact same thing.
Full Sail Pale
FS: I like that it's dry, I don't particularly enjoy the flavor. It's…uh…I'm sure there's a word…it doesn't linger.
LP: It has a more interesting flavor. I don't think I'd buy a keg of it, but it's okay.
Vote: Split.
Final tally: New Mexico beer (4), Oregon beer (6).
