Decked out in minimalistic brushed aluminum, Counter Culture has the look of a hip urban eatery whose owners subscribe to Dwell. And minus any big-city snobbery, that's exactly what it is (though we're not sure which subscriptions they take). Fresh, healthy foods dominate the menu, with a few tempting sugar-filled treats sprinkled in. Plenty of people filter in just to grab coffee in the morning, but Counter Culture is known for offering one of the best sit-down breakfasts in town-omelets oozing with buffalo mozzarella and fluffy, yeasty French toast. It's also got a reputation as a destination for quick spring roll lunches. But it's at dinner that the food shines as brightly as the décor. On a recent visit we were delighted by hangar steak and salmon dishes that were both beautifully prepared and satisfyingly delicious. The only thing better than the dinner entrées here is the feeling that you're stealing them at under $15 each. Just don't forget to bring cash (or a checkbook for locals), 'cause 15 bucks is a lot of dishes at a place that won't swipe your plastic.
930 Baca St., 995-1105.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday; breakfast and lunch on Sunday. Cash and local checks only. $-$$
