Four greens to look for this spring.
Spring in New Mexico means plenty of leafy greens lining the stalls at the farmers markets. Don't they look so pretty, so wholesome? But what they hell
are
they?! Greens take a little time and effort to cook, and in this fast food society, they've largely fallen by the wayside. Mustard greens today are as foreign as Lunchables were 20 years ago. And yet farmers haven't given up on greens, and neither have nutritionists, who keep telling us to eat more leafy green vegetables. So here's a quick rundown of four greens you'll find in northern New Mexico markets this season, and a few suggestions for what to do with them once you get home. For more ideas about what grows when in the area, go to
www.farmersmarketsnm.org/harvest.htm
.
Chard
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Did you ever notice how the pillowy green leaves of chard so closely resemble beet tops? That's because they're the same species. Varieties that are grown for their bulbs are known as beets and varieties grown for their leaves are called chard. So if you buy beets with the greens attached, you can and should cook the greens too. In general, chard (which is also called Swiss chard) leaves and stems have a slightly bitter, slightly salty taste. One cup of cooked chard provides 716 percent of your vitamin K, 100 percent of your vitamin A and about as much vitamin C as a glass of orange juice. To take advantage of all that good stuff, tear leaves of chard into salads, omelets and pastas, and cook them only briefly. To serve chard as a side dish, sauté it briefly in olive oil with onion, garlic, red chile flakes and a splash of red wine vinegar.
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Collard Greens
Collards are in the cabbage family and are often confused with other family members. (All that green stuff looks alike!) Their thick, smooth leaves are dark green, with pale veins that are reminiscent of chard, Napa cabbage and other relatives. These ancient greens are native to the Mediterranean, but we know them best from Southern cooks and soul food restaurants. Collards become more nutritious after being cooked a little, but lose vitamins when they're cooked too much. To make a traditional batch of collards, fry up some smoky bacon, add a little chopped onion and garlic, and a bunch of chopped kale. Pour water or low-sodium broth over the kale and simmer. Southerners often cook their collards for several hours, and the resulting smoky, pale green cooking liquid, known as pot liquor (or pot likker), is believed to have soothing, restorative properties. Think of it as the Southern version of chicken soup or green chile stew, but be sure to serve it with plenty of cornbread.
Mustard Greens
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These leafy greens, related to the plant that gives us mustard seeds (and, eventually, Grey Poupon), are native to the Himalayas, where they've been grown for thousands of years. Like other spring greens, mustard greens are good-and good for you-but they have a sharp, tangy flavor that some people just love to hate. Mustard lovers appreciate their zippy kick and you might, too. Their strong flavor is a good match for spicy East Indian curries and hearty stews. For a real treat, make a wilted mustard salad: Fry several slices of bacon and drain them, then add some sliced onion and cook until it's softened. Toss ½ pound torn mustard leaves with 3 tablespoons bacon grease, 1½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar, the crumbled bacon and sautéed onion. Mmm, mmm good!
Kale
You know those ruffly purple cabbages you see dotting the planters outside big-city buildings? Yup, that's actually kale. Totally edible and easy to grow, it's often used as an ornamental plant because, well, who would steal it? But it's a mistake
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to overlook kale just because some people think it isn't worth stealing. Those stupid criminals don't know what's good for them! There are many varieties of kale and all of them are chock-full of vitamins. Plus, kale actually tastes great. Kale's flavor is stronger than spinach, less bitter than some other greens and less cabbage-y than cabbage. More tender than collards or mustard greens, young kale is a great substitute in most recipes that call for spinach. One serving of kale contains 206 percent of your daily vitamin A and 134 percent of your vitamin C. It's also a great source of fiber, protein, vitamin K, vitamin B6, calcium, potassium, copper and manganese. So eat up!
Colcannon
You can also make this traditional Irish dish with leftover mashed potatoes and kale. Simply fry them together in a large skillet with a little butter. Feel free to add a couple cloves of garlic, substitute pearl onions for the leeks or stir in some cooked sausage just before serving.
3 small to medium leeks
½ pound kale
4 tablespoons butter
2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, quartered
2/3 cup milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Put the potatoes in a saucepan and add cold water to cover. Bring the water to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, chop off the bulb ends of the leeks and trim a few inches from the tops. Then slice each leek lengthwise and wash under cold running water, rinsing away any dirt or grit. (Skip this step at your own gritty peril.)
Remove the thickest stems from the kale and then roughly chop the leaves.
Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and stir until they're all coated with butter. Cook about 5 minutes, until the leeks are softened. Add the kale and stir to incorporate. Add 2 tablespoons water, cover and cook 10 minutes longer. Remove the pan from the heat.
In a small saucepan, bring the milk to a simmer, then remove it from the heat.
Drain the potatoes, then mash them with the milk and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Gently mash the leeks and kale with the potatoes, then adjust the seasonings and serve.
