This is not a review of the new Market Steer Steakhouse (213 Washington Ave., (505) 365-1010).
If it were, overwhelmingly positive and flowery language would follow, but since the downtown steakhouse from married couple and business partners chef Kathleen Crook and Kristina Goode will only have been back in business for two days by the time this story drops, we’re still smack dab in the middle of that restaurant grace period when we all give a place a chance to work out the kinks. Even so, following an invite-only dinner last weekend, it would seem there aren’t really kinks to work out, as everything from the service to the ambiance to the food itself was top-notch; better than ever, maybe; really quite something special. But rather than break it all down dish by dish, let’s go big picture and take the measure of Market Steer.
Killer Vibes
Anyone who visited the former El Mesón tapas joint likely has a mental image about the building’s interior, but Crook and Goode have gutted the space, leaving it unrecognizable. The pair tapped Santa Fe designer Thom Ortiz for the reno, and though Market Steer has embraced the minimalist white wall decor that is ubiquitous throughout fine dining, various accouterments give it life—a massive custom-built chandelier in the main dining room, for example, or sconces that implement horse hair. The lighting is borderline romantic, too and, though the patio was not open during the dinner, plenty of summer days remain for al fresco experiences. Each table adheres to the white tablecloth protocol of upscale eateries and is uncluttered. “I think we’ve kind of hit it,” Crook says of the interior design. “Honestly, for the most part, it feels very surreal. I still don’t feel like it’s ours.” But it sure is. In fact, Crook and Goode now own the building.
New Drinks
“I think we outgrew our arrangement with them,” Goode says about the move from the Hotel St. Francis. “We wanted to tell our story through design, to create our brand and have full autonomy for what that looks like—a space that is completely ours.” Both Goode and Crook have nothing but positive comments about the hotel that had housed their restaurant since 2018, but they’re now able to have their own liquor license, which means Market Steer can for the first time curate its wine and cocktail list. As such, they’ve welcomed Santa Fe sommelier Tyler Rudoff into the fold, both as a business partner and as the restaurant’s beverage director. Rudoff is a born Santa Fean, but cut his teeth in California and Chicago. He spent the evening’s service flitting around helping diners with wine and cocktail selections (including zero proof options like an outstanding and refreshing blueberry shrub) and making use of a dedicated decanting station. “[We] discussed crafting an exceptional wine list while emphasizing the importance of connections with winemakers,” Rudoff says. The most immediately noticeable connection? Rudoff asked a number of notable vintners—such as Robert Sinskey of Robert Sinskey Vineyards and Cristina Torres of Marimar Estate—to provide custom tasting notes, which can be read within the Market Steer wine book. You’ll also find familiar and signature cocktails with more in store, according to Rudoff.
A Change of Tack
Chef Crook hails from Artesia in Southern New Mexico and is famous to some as an award-winning rodeo champ. Market Steer leans into that with its bar, playfully dubbed The Tack Room. The space is decked out in rodeo ephemera, including real-life trophies won by Crook, not to mention a more laid-back atmosphere than the main dining area. The Tack Room is also where the restaurant will host its happy hour menu from 4-5:30 pm every day but Sunday when the restaurant is closed. During happy hour, Goode says, everything on the bar menu runs $10 (numerous drinks included), and it’s where to find dishes like a forthcoming green chile cheese smash burger; deviled eggs with lobster; a Caesar salad so robust you literally need a knife; and the beloved Market Steer bourbon bread pudding. Perhaps the most interesting item on the bar menu, however, might be the confit duck wings served with a white BBQ sauce and a house made giardiniera. Think of them like chicken wings, only elevated. “I was talking to the guy I buy my proteins from, and I wanted duck bones to make a duck stock,” Crook explains. “He says, ‘I don’t have duck bones, but I do have duck wings,’ and we both at the same time said, ‘What if we confited them?!” If you like duck confit, you’ll like this.” Goode, meanwhile, says the happy hour menu is also about accessibility. “Our intention is for people to not feel like they have to come in here and have this big fancy dinner,” she says. “We’re doing things so people can come in and have something a little more casual, because we’re both bar sitters when we go out to eat.”
Pickled Blueberries Are Phenomenal
Surprisingly, Market Steer doesn’t have a pastry chef, but Crook’s sweets are on par with any place in town. Of special note, the beef fat chocolate pâté is a rather interesting dessert that comes with anise shortbread cookies and a spiced peach jam; and the aforementioned bourbon bread pudding remains popular, at least from what I spied on other tables during the dinner. The lemon crème brûlée might take the cake, though, thanks to a pandemic-spurred element devised by Crook: pickled blueberries. “I got this big shipment the day before we found out we’d be shutting down,” she says. “I was like, ‘What am I going to do with this huge case of blueberries?’ So I pickled them, and it’s been a staple ever since.”
The 100% Return Rate
Though it’s borderline unbelievable as Market Steer had been closed since March while the new building came together, all of its original staff apparently returned to work at the steakhouse. “Just…chef and Kristina are seriously awesome bosses,” a busser told me. “It’s a great place to work.” My server had similar thoughts and seemed almost verklempt about being back at work. He also had a series of gentle and excellent suggestions for sides and steak enhancements that never felt coercive or aggressive. In all cases, the workers seemed…happy. Wild. “You surround yourself with the best people,” Crook says, “you get the best results.”