The calls and emails came fast and furious to SFR in recent months: Why were downtown Italian fusion restaurant Sassella and its accompanying deli closed? Where was chef Cristian Pontiggia? What was gonna happen?!
Last month, we got our answer when Pontiggia (who also cooked at El Nido, btw) told SFR he was walking away from the eatery he helped open in 2019 alongside Lawrence and Suszanna Becerra. The news felt bittersweet in that Pontiggia was recently shortlisted for the 2025 James Beard Award (sadly, he did not make the final nomination round); but mostly bitter in that Sassella had become quite popular thanks in large part to Pontiggia’s love of cooking and
insistence upon constantly evolving and elevating his craft.
The good news? After fielding offers from numerous Santa Fe restaurants, Pontiggia has officially accepted the executive chef position at the Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi Restaurant. He started work there just two days ago. And though it’s quite early in Pontiggia’s newest chapter, we still spoke with him about the big move, his thoughts on food and what sort of items he likes collecting (hint: you likely won’t guess). This interview has been edited for clarity and concision.
SFR: Once and for all, what happened at Sassella?
Cristian Pontiggia: We had this one leak at the busser station, and we continued to have this weird smell. Then every plumber had a different story about why that was, so finally we decided to ask a company to put a hole down in the station, and there all this was water in there, and it was two or three different leaks. The building is really old, and…the insurance was taking forever—I actually still have no idea what’s going on with the insurance now. I decided it was too much for me. It was too many things happening, too many people calling me. I decided to opt out. You know when you have too much stress? It was time for me to take a break and see what the future brings. I had some offers; I like the Anasazi Restaurant.
I want to say I love the Becerras, because they’re good people and they gave me a lot and they’ve always been generous with my projects.
What does that feel like after having put so much of yourself into Sassella?
It breaks your heart. I mean, I’ve done this job for so long, like, I started at 14. And between culinary school and working—I always worked, because I came from a poor family and had to pay for my instruction—I never had the problem where I had to stop. The world of this [restaurant] industry has changed. And I’d never be like ‘this is black or white,’ and of course it was a project I loved so much. Sassella will
always have a special place in my heart. At the same time, it’s nice for me to think about things I could do.
And insofar as that goes, you’ll be the executive chef at Anasazi Restaurant. You got a number of offers, what made this one the right place for you?
I love Rosewood [Hotels & Resorts]. I mean, they’re beautiful at every place they have…like Hawaii, Japan it’s amazing. Plus, I really like the building, it has a good energy.
Also, one of the last things I want in my career is the James Beard Award. When I was still in my office in Sassella, I had all my awards there, but I had this one empty nail. I’m a collector. I have almost 7,000 comic books; action figures...I have my collection of what I want in my career, and that’s the last piece of my collection, the Beard
You think you can do that at the Anasazi?
I’m going to try. It’s about what I do, and I try my best all the time. I feel my age, it sucks to age—but I feel my experience.
What else are you liking about the Anasazi?
Like I say, it has that good energy, and everybody, like, my colleagues, says I made the right choice. For me it’s not right or wrong, but if I can do my job to the best of my ability.
Alex De Vore
Chef Cristian Pontiggia
What do you plan to do over there? Can you redesign the menu, for instance? How much freedom do you have?
I have freedom, but at the same time I don’t want to go ballistic on Italian food. People come to Santa Fe, and they want to have New Mexican food. I love New Mexican food, too, but what I’m most excited about is that I can have a
fusion of Italian, New Mexican, Asian…that’s my goal. I can never move away from pasta and that kind of style of food. At the same time, there’s a lot of excitement to have that fusion mix of New Mexican with Italian.
Will you take any Sassella dishes for the menu?
I have no idea yet. Usually I like to observe for a few days, I have to taste the food. Observe first. In my head, I will try to improve it. In my head everything can be elevated. For sure I’m going to change the presentation. I have my OCD and style about things. In my personal time, I paint abstracts, I do poetry—and food is kind of similar. You can have the same dish on the menu, but that doesn’t mean the next day you have the same ingredients: The pepper is going to be hotter or you won’t have something or you can’t get some other thing. And I care so much about every single component that every dish for me is like a painting, only it’s just for you, the customer, and never exactly the same.
So the experience of cooking and experimenting is still fun for you?
Ohmygod. It’s what gives me life. So many places—places I respect—play it safe with the same menu forever. I would die. It’s easy, but it becomes almost impossible for the kitchen to make a mistake, and I’d prefer to make a mistake than to play it safe all the time. It’s the death of your fantasy, your vision and of having the balls to try something. Some dishes have been with me for 20 years, but they evolve every time with a new component, a new evolution. It’s really boring thinking about all the time making the same dish. Your palate? That will make it go crazy. Have you been downstairs at the Anasazi, where they have wines and this one little table? I want to make that the chef’s table and do tasting menus sometimes where I can make dishes specifically for the people who come.
Talk to me about the tasting menu. What do you envision?
I never like menus that are too big and that complicate too much. What I’m trying to say is I prefer menus not too large, but created with care. You have more control with ingredients, fresh stuff. That’s why I love to do specials all the time, like I did at Sassella. I can play with whatever I want. At the right time, I’m going to introduce the tasting menu and the chef’s table with the tasting menu.
Have you thought at all about what makes you want to do it with all the stress and plumbing issues and consistent desire to elevate your work?
It’s a combination of things. I remember to find peace in cooking. When my parents divorced, I stayed with my father. I love my mom to death, but…in Italy, they ask the child what they want to do. I went with my dad, and he had a bar in the center of my town and was working all the time, so I had to cook for myself. In cooking, I found peace from a young age. In your kitchen, you make your personal religion, and it’s on the plate. I find peace when I’m in the kitchen. I find drive.
Will you bring any staff over from Sassella?
I don’t know. We’ll see. I don’t like to go in and fire people for no good reason.
Makes sense. Last thing—are you so excited to start at a new spot?
I’ll get excited when I see it. For me, it’s like a puzzle. When I get excited is when I start to put the pieces together, and when you have the feeling you’re making the puzzle right. I just want to see it become a good place to eat in town.
