Alex De Vore
The grilled Scottish salmon served on a bed of farro. Rustica was hit or miss, but it’s definitely gaining a devout customer base.
The whole gang’s been talking about hitting up that new-ish Italian joint Rustica since it opened last year. Said new spot, which lives in what was once an Outback Steakhouse (though you’d never know it now thanks to some serious renovations), comes to our fair city courtesy of married couple Josh Baum and Ann Gordon—the very same people who own and operate The Ranch House (it’s BBQ) across the street from Rustica down in that dizzying Southside criss-cross of streets all called Camino Entrada (where you’ll find the court and the cops, if that helps).
One might easily say we waited this long to give Rustica (2574 Camino Entrada, (505) 780-5279) a chance to work out its kinks. Baum is celebrated for his BBQ prowess, of course, but opening an Italian joint—which, the story on the back of the menu describes, was done because “who doesn’t like Italian?”—is a whole other ball of wax. One might also say that we fear new-ness in Santa Fe, and that the Southside might as well be another city entirely. Strangely (read, jerkishly), I’d drive hours to get to work in Los Angeles, but the thought of heading 12 minutes down Cerrillos Road for something I actually want to do feels like hell some cold nights. This is a bad way to live, however, and something I’m actively trying to alter—to put it plainly, I suck for that line of thought, I’m working on getting down there for things more often and downtown Santa Fe hasn’t been aimed at locals since I don’t even know when. High marks, then, to Baum and Gordon for opening not one but two places to grab a meal on that side of town. I must admit, too, that two looming restaurants beside one another looks incredibly cool lit up at night, and knowing they’re not chains or car dealerships activates my hometown pride.
Rustica is beautiful, too. A combination of floors, particularly in the foyer, that look so clean you might eat off of them, and a casual family style atmosphere that whispers something about how this isn’t going to be the most expensive meal you’ve ever eaten, but it’s also not going to be a Blooming freaking Onion. High marks to Baum and crew, too, for a mostly concise menu of Italian hits. No surprises there, per se, but with old standby selections like the pizza margherita ($10) and lasagna bolognese ($16) sitting beside more creative items like housemade duck ravioli ($18) and an eggplant souffle with a feta center ($10), it seems Rustica’s out to satisfy the normies while giving more discerning palates a little something more.
Alex De Vore
Our server was a dream of kindness and memory skills, and though she never jotted down a single note, she never made a mistake. We began with appetizers like butternut squash bisque and grilled cauliflower. Here our troubles began with the wildly over-oily cauliflower sitting limp and chewy on the plate rather than crisp and flavorful, and the butternut bisque tasting fine—just fine. Served with a garnish of creamy pesto, the sweet and earthy squash flavor fought with the brighter acidity of its topping. No, this isn’t the worst squash soup we’ve had, but it’s far from the best.
For the main course, my companion chose the aforementioned duck ravioli. As someone who doesn’t eat meat outside of fish, it sounded incredible, even if most duck can lean toward being an oily mess. At Rustica, our companion said, the dish missed the mark. Advertised as a porcini mushroom cream sauce, these ravioli instead came coated in an unidentifiable pale yellow...something. It also added little to the dish, I’m told, and the duck itself, which came shredded, didn’t wind up being oily, though it was lacking in any particular flavor. What’s the old axiom? Swing and a miss?
I, meanwhile, ordered the grilled Scottish salmon served atop a bed of farro (that’s a medley of wheat grains for those not in the know; $22). Not only had the chef grilled the fish’s exterior to a satisfying crisp around the edges, it came as hot as I’ve ever been served a meal with a delightful interior flake and buttery texture. Whoever cooked that fish should teach classes. The farro was a flavor delight, too, to the point I wondered aloud whether it contained diced ham. It did not. I would note that in almost any other milieu, my massive serving of the stuff would be considered value. At Rustica, while tasty, the farro dominated the plate, and I left more than a little behind. The fish, however, which came in a generous portion, was eaten in whole.
Lastly, being brave, we ordered three of the four desserts on offer: an apple crostada with vanilla gelato and rosemary caramel sauce; a warm chocolate budino (think pudding in that it’s literally pudding) served with salted caramel gelato and chopped hazelnuts; and a tiramisu (a family recipe according to the menu) to go for a friend who couldn’t attend. These were far and away the highlight of the night. I’d never sampled rosemary caramel sauce before—I’ve only had those things separately, in fact. When tasted in tandem with the creamy vanilla gelato and the warm, crispy apple pastry beneath, however, it became a symphony of complementary flavors. At this point, I was already full, and yet I could not stop myself. My companion’s budino proved a delight as well, particularly in the hot/cold contrast between the pudding itself and the salty gelato. It was, not hyperbolically, a miracle. Oh, and that tiramisu? It was eaten quickly later that night, and its flavorful mascarpone and lady fingers inspired loving declarations. Scattered with crunchy little chocolate bits, it was, reportedly, a revelation.
Whatever else, Rustica’s dining room and bar were both packed to the brim while maintaining enough space between tables for COVID-19 reasons. Even as we left, more diners were pouring in, likely because there just isn’t anything else quite like Rustica on that side of town. Outside, cars lined the street between Baum and Gordon’s compound-like restaurant empire, and I fantasized about eating ribs just once more before I die. And so I choose to believe it was an off night for certain items, and I’m willing to return. OK, fine—if I’m being honest, I’m anxious to get back to that budino; and any drinkers will surely find something to enjoy among the full bar and Rustica’s emphasis on Italian wines among others.
