Word of mouth is so huge in the restaurant world, especially in Santa Fe, where each and every one of us has the power to help or hinder through our adorable little networks. I take these things very seriously, too, so when no fewer than three people whose opinions I value advised me that I needed to visit new restaurant Katrina’s, I heeded the call.
Located in the former Dos Amigos Sports Mexican Restaurant—a spot I was initially sad to lose because I liked the breakfast burrito—Katrina’s (2428 Cerrillos Road) might still be earning its sea legs, but with a wide menu that includes popular Mexican touchstones, lots of seafood and a robust list of molcajete options, I’d say it’s already well on its way.
The prices are fair, the service is attentive, the vibes are…let’s just say that Katrina’s is decidedly un-stuffy, though a fresh coat of paint rather than the current dark walls might go a long way toward making things feel a bit breezier and more comfortable. As it stands, the ambiance will not be for everyone. In fact, the bar area just off the entrance is borderline depressing—but for a family pitstop, or a quick bite for one or two...well, let’s just say that Katrina’s checked all my boxes during a recent visit.
Note first, at the time of this writing, Katrina’s did not yet have signage outside. I assure you it exists, however, and the very nice hostess/server was bubbly and kind and glad to seat a companion and I immediately. That’s the other cool thing about new spots sometimes—none of that La Choza-caliber waiting around for 90 minutes.
Still, we were quite hungry, and we went big during our visit by ordering chips and guac ($12.99), plus the carne asada tacos, the carne adobada plate and chicken flautas ($14.99 each), thereby covering all the non-seafood meat options in one fell swoop.
The kitchen at Katrina’s clearly knew a thing or two about guacamole. In fact, it might have been the creamiest I’ve encountered in a local joint in some time, though it retained its thickness and buttery flavor. The house made chips were also quite tasty and not over-salted. As for the adobada (aka adovada for all you New Mexicans out there)? Well, the option to get a big heaping pile of slow-cooked pork absolutely slathered in red chile felt like a must. This one was a winner, too, from the generous portion of tender pork and the complex and just-spicy-enough red chile, to the included refried beans and rice, plus a flour tortilla. I managed to eke out two mini-burritos from the sweet and fatty goodness on the plate, and I still had enough left over for breakfast the next morning (plopping a fried egg onto just about any New Mexican leftovers never disappoints).
The chicken flautas were less thrilling, however, due to a strange flavor profile that we attributed to the meat likely having been cooked on the same surface as Katrina’s seafood offerings. This isn’t to say it tasted bad, but when you’re expecting chicken and get fishy notes, your tastebuds aren’t sure what to make of that. And the fish taste was strong with these. That’s a small issue, ultimately, and one easily attributable to the kinks of opening a restaurant. Besides—let’s talk about the tacos, because Katrina’s came awfully close to unseating Fusion and El Parasol as my go-to taco joint. The base carne asada order comes quesabirria style with melted cheese on the inside of the corn tortilla, a heap of beef and a bit of cilantro and onion to round out the flavor. As I’ve said before, the word “perfect” doesn’t have much of a place in the world of food writing, as it describes a level of goodness that is technically not achievable. Katrina’s carne asada tacos were as close to perfect as I’ve had. On one hand, the melty cheese and earthy beef had a distinct flavor; on the other, I was reminded of our dearly departed Felipe’s Tacos (though Felipe Martinez’s burritos were his real winners; and the man himself is still alive and well). So for now, I might relegate Katrina’s to a takeout spot from which I order tacos to eat at home. I’m excited to try the other varieties.
Alex De Vore
A few days later, SFR Art Director Anson Stevens-Bollen and I set out for El Rigoberto’s (2207 Cerrillos Road, (505) 428-0406), the newest restaurant to take over the Midtown building that previously housed eateries like Cuco’s Kitchen, Fast & Real and Burrito Spot. Rigoberto’s has roots in Los Alamos and White Rock, and its presence in Santa Fe continues the grand tradition of finding a dope-ass burrito on Cerrillos Road. Plus, like Katrina’s, people have repeatedly told me I need to get over there.
My companion went simple with the #8 carne asada taco combo—a pair of tacos with sides of rice and beans ($12.25). I chose the California burrito plate ($11.25), a dish that also came with beans and rice, and one that reminded me of my favorite Northern California taqueria, Los Piños—the place that wrapped crispy fries up into their carne asada burrito, which Rigoberto’s does, too. And it’s absolutely brilliant. You might laugh at the prospect of someone being so excited for fries inside a burrito, but it’s a glorious texture add-on and one not seen on enough Santa Fe menus. And even though my companion and I agreed the beef was perhaps a tiny bit overcooked, we devoured our meals. It’s four days later as I write this and I’m still waxing poetic about that California burrito. Actually, I have plans to pick one up on the way home. As for the rest of you? Visit these restaurants. Patronize them. I’d like to see how this pans out and we can always use taco joints.
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El Rigobertos
El Rigobertos' presence in Santa Fe continues the grand tradition of finding a dope-ass burrito on Cerrillos Road
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Katrina’s
2428 Cerrillos Road, Santa Fe, New MexicoThe prices are fair, the service is attentive, and the kitchen at Katrina’s clearly knew a thing or two about guacamole.
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