s much as some Santa Feans will likely miss the old Root 66 vegan restaurant on Lena Street, the newest culinary addition to the space just across from Bread Shop and Iconik Coffee Roasters is the sort of eatery we’ve all missed since the
tragically short-lived Cuba Fe flared up then faded away. That’s right, local eaters—Santa Fe has a Cuban joint now, and it comes to us courtesy of Cuban immigrants Yeseni Lago and Adrian Nuñes.
Lago Café (1704 B1 Lena St., (505) 305-8447) is an adorably bright, airy and clean little restaurant that opened just three months ago but has quickly gained footing as the only restaurant of its type in our burg. The patio is nice, too. Cuban is a food we’ve been sorely missing around here, even if restaurants like Vinaigrette and Dr. Field Goods have long boasted Cubano sandwiches on their menus (both are good, too, though nothing compared to the aforementioned and fleeting Cuba Fe). I certainly won’t sit here typing out a morality lesson about authenticity in food, but just like the New Mexican folks who open chile spots in other cities, there’s just something a little more enticing about a cuisine prepared by people who grew up eating its offerings.
The good news? Lago is a fairly strong dining option right out of the gate with a concise but appetizing menu that features the likes of picadillo, guajiro and tostones. The less good news? Parking in the Lena Street Lofts zone is as terrible as ever, meaning lunchtime sojourns could be tricky. Still, Lago and Nuñes are hardly in charge of parking, and for those in search of plantains, sandwiches, salads or croquetas, parking woes seem a minimal obstacle.
Alex De Vore
If you do manage to snag a spot and make your way to Lago, you should know a few things right off the bat—like how it serves a medianoche rather than the Cubano most folks know and love. Like the parking, this is not a complaint, just a so-you know. The difference between the two sandwiches will feel negligible to most, anyway, even if some prefer the softer egg bread of the medianoche to that crusty Cuban bread, anyway. I kind of like them both, and I’ve been craving a chance to tackle Lago’s version since it first opened. So that’s what I ordered. At $15.75 and with no included side item, the medianoche a bittersweet dish. The sandwich itself is mostly a delight, from the roasted pork and ham to the tangy mayo, melty cheese and soft and squishy bread. My particular order felt light on the sweet pickles, however, and could have used a salty something to round out the almost buttery richness of the meat. Lago offers a couple rice options and black beans, but fries or even a small salad might have enhanced my perceived value. Honestly, when any sandwich—say, a burger, for example—comes sans-side, it’s a tough pill to swallow, and I’m not sure any diner out there doesn’t feel disappointment pangs when their sandwich seems lonely. Even so, the taste was a winner, and I somehow managed to save half for later in the day
My dining companion doesn’t do meat, however, but Lago has vegetarians covered with options like beans, rice, plantains and a dish called the Green Trio featuring roasted zucchini, eggplant and cauliflower with an avocado crema. Since this particular companion eats like a complete weirdo, he merely ordered black beans and plantains ($2.50 and $4.95 respectively), however, which actually turned out to be a smart plan. I’m not sure bananas and beans are anyone’s first idea of an exciting combination, but Lago’s beans are seasoned so well that their hints of garlic and mild saltiness complemented the fried plantains in a way I can only describe as Reese’s-like; which is to say the taste was borderline perfect, though admittedly surprising. Should I be cramming black bean burritos with plantains, actually? Too bad Elvis is dead, because that sounds like his kind of thing.
At any rate, my only eating half a sandwich and my companion’s two-sides plan meant we earned ourselves a little treat. Yes, Lago Café has flan, but for those of us who don’t love a dessert that feels like swallowing raw eggs, they also feature pastelitos stuffed with guava and sweet cheese and arroz con leche, the latter of which sounded too good to ignore ($4.95). Dessert, sadly, proved the low point of the meal. While arroz con leche is not quite the same as rice pudding in my experience, Lago’s version came with an underdone texture. When using rice in dessert, the not-so-secret element is time; you want that rice to have the room and time to soak up the milk and take on any spice flavors, like the cinnamon that comes on top. I’m not even sure this particular version’s rice had been cooked at any point, and we had to admit defeat after just a few bites.
Despite that, our overall experience was positive. Lago Café is quite clean and plenty comfortable, and we received prompt and courteous service. Beyond that, the sandwich was delicious if a bit thin and my newfound beans ’n’ bananas obsession serves as a reminder that there’s always something new to encounter when dining in restaurants. Our current juncture feels critical, then. I’d like to see Lago gain a strong toehold and perhaps grow its menu. I’d also like to get back to try its two tapas options—Mediterranean Tapa and Tapita Havana, combinations of jamón serrano, olives and toast that merge Spanish sensibilities with Cuban cooking methods. I think I’d also like to be one of those, “I was there the whole time!” types. If I’m honest, though, I’m in it for the pork. So good!
