Regular readers will surely know that SFR has long loved Sagche’s Coffee House (730 St. Michael's Drive, (505) 780-5263) for its breakfast and brunch menus. Founder-owners/brothers Erwin and Walfre Sagche have really built something epic with their combo of American, Central American and New Mexican dishes, and it’s not uncommon to see our staffers going to town on a breakfast sandwich, a breakfast quesadilla, a taco salad or even just picking up a pound of coffee to make at home.
Now, however, the Sagches have expanded their little empire into the space next door, renovated the heck out of it and added a number of dinner items alongside new and improved hours, and, just like their breakfast offerings, Santa Fe is reaping all the benefits.
I stopped by with a companion on a Friday evening, when the space was empty. Granted, we chose to dine on the earlier side, but I also figured that not enough folks know Sagche’s has dinner now. Even so, we didn’t have to wait for a table, and Erwin Sagche himself played the roles of host and server. Welcoming doesn’t even begin to describe it, though I’ve been a regular there long enough to know that the folks at Sagche appreciate a consistent customer.
For now, the nighttime ambiance could use some work. Sagche’s new dining room is lit in a borderline sickly pale white, almost like a hospital waiting room. Nevertheless, poor lighting doesn’t mean poor food, and I’ve made many a speech about the spot with the weird interior and the killer menu. Sagche’s is that big time, even if the available appetizers of chile cheese fries, nachos, tacos and jalapeño poppers feel more like full-ass meals rather than palate teasers.
We decided we could only eat so much and sidestepped the appetizers to zero in on the entree list, which included many familiar items—breakfast at night always rules. In the end, my companion couldn’t resist the veggie enchiladas with sautéed spinach and mushrooms, calabacitas and tomato—smothered red ($13.95)—and I chose the estofado plate ($17.95), a combination of shredded beef, chicken and pork slow-cooked overnight in a melange of Guatemalan spices.
When he dropped the dish, Erwin explained it was a traditional Guatemalan wedding meal, though now that I’ve had it I can’t imagine waiting for weddings to sample the stew-like concoction. The shredded meat was so tender and made for perfect little tacos with the included house-made corn tortillas. One might understandably think that a trio of meats would lose discernable flavor, but this was not the case. The beef shone through from the start with the sweeter taste of the pork lingering in the moments after, and the combo of spices brought out the best savory chicken tastes, too. I made myself mini tacos with the included house-made corn tortillas, and couldn’t help but think that I might try to add a fried egg next time if they let me. If I’m being honest, I only took one bite of the side of mayonnaise salad that included potatoes, peas and carrots. Perhaps it’s cultural, but great big globs of mayo just wasn’t it for me.
Still, my companion described the veggie enchiladas with a simple but poignant “Oh, God. So Good!” while I found myself jealous of their chile. I’m no stranger to the Sagche’s red, so I know it’s got a tangy bite that rounds out the earthier flavors quite nicely. “I would get this again,” they said. “And again.”
We closed the night with tres leches, a staple on local menus that isn’t always done as well as one might like. While the undefeated tres leches king remains Tune Up Café, Sagche’s house-made take on the dish included a thin layer of strawberry jam and an airy frosting that not only accentuated the sweet and milky flavors, but did a lot to keep the structure solid. Our only regret is that we didn’t order a slice each.
As Santa Feans more regularly look for nighttime dining options outside of the downtown standbys, Sagche’s has quietly become an important destination. In that same little area, you’ll find the likes of Valentina’s Dos, Chow’s Asian Bistro and Tibetan eatery FitMania. But our Central American dinner options have dwindled for dinner ever since Red Enchilada started closing at 4 pm. Sagche’s fills the void and then some, and I can only imagine it’ll get better and better over time, just like it did for breakfast. If its owners can do something about the lighting, too, they’d have something really special. Now we just need to make sure to eat there.
