You’d be forgiven for thinking Eduardo Rodriguez’s new take on downtown fine dining joint TerraCotta Wine Bistro had been under his ownership for some time. Fact is, though, the James Beard Award-nominated chef and owner of Zacatlán has only been operating his new restaurant for a couple weeks, but his penchant for creativity and unexpected flair suit his second restaurant so well, it already has a strong enough identity for a critic to stop by for a nosh—even if Rodriguez currently finds his liquor license delayed.
As of this writing, TerraCotta (304 Johnson St., (505) 989-1166) cannot serve booze, though a very nice hostess told me and a companion that they expected to have wine, beer and cocktail service up and running any day now. And though a thoughtful wine list or crafty cocktails can certainly enhance a meal—especially when numerous plates on the Terracotta menu run in the $40-$50-ish range—there are still more than enough enticing dishes on offer to soothe the sting. Besides, you can make it through a meal without wine, I promise, and it’s worth it.
Rodriguez takes over TerraCotta from chef/owner Catherine O’Brien, who sadly died last year. And though he has certainly revamped the nuts and bolts of the menu, the spirit and ambiance remain intact. TerraCotta is admittedly cozy, but it practically radiates warmth and nourishment throughout its small rooms. On the night we visited, we enjoyed the main dining area alongside only a small handful of other patrons, however, which was quite nice. Perhaps the liquor license delay is keeping some diners at bay temporarily, but if ever you wanted to top-tier meal without the hassle of close quarters, the time is now.
Alex De Vore
The beets and burrata starter is not only delicious all-around, it’s practically a piece of art.
We began with the gluten-free beets and burrata starter, a clever combo of slow roasted red and golden beets served with watermelon radish, grapefruit segments, avocado and, of course, the burrata cheese ($22). The real cincher was the light bit of lemon vinaigrette and gentle dusting of coffee, which worked together to offer a slight crunch and a bright tang that paired quite well with the earthier flavors of the beets and the bitterness of the grapefruit. Rodriguez’s plating looked like a fine art project, too, and there was more than enough food to share without putting a damper on our appetite.
Our mains were somehow even more beautiful, particularly the grilled Hawaiian tuna with black lentil risotto and wasabi crema served with scallions, bok choy and coriander ($44). Like our starter, this dish was gorgeous, and Rodriguez’s gentle sear took the star attraction tuna to the next level. On the exterior, a subtle crisp, while the inside straddled the line between firm and tender brilliantly. Tuna in particular is a tough cooking challenge with many a chef straying too far into the rubbery for fear, perhaps, of undercooking. Rodriguez is no slouch with seafood, however, and the contrasting creaminess of the risotto struck a sublime counterbalance with the chewiness of the fish.
The pork tomahawk, meanwhile ($46), was a revelation served with hummus and sautéed spinach alongside tempura broccolini and apricot chutney. I have an apricot allergy, which felt a true shame to forego as a bit of sweetness might have taken the dish into the stratosphere. Without it, however, I still discovered a savory and satisfying variety of flavors and textures. The pork itself was cooked to a borderline perfect crisp on its exterior, while the soft insides practically melted like butter while revealing a richer taste—not fatty, but seasoned just right and cooked just as well. It takes a lot for a vegetable to distract from a killer cut of meat, but the tempura broccolini just about succeeded thanks to the flaky and crackly crisp of the tempura coating and the obvious freshness of the veggie itself. The spinach added a mildly bitter companion flavor, and when sampling the trio of meat and veggies in a single bite…well, maybe I should have stopped eating the dish and taken some home when I got full, but I couldn’t stop myself from cleaning my plate. Honestly, it was even hard to select that one dish, as other highlights such as the beef tenderloin ($56) and the piquillo almond and charred eggplant ravioli ($36) sounded beyond delicious.
We closed the night with a pair of desserts, including the Key lime pie ($12) and the chocolate sphere ($14). The Key lime pie was a triumph of subtle sweetness and citrus. It can be so easy to overload that particular pie with too much sugar, but the creaminess of its lemon mousse and the included glut of fresh berries shone without causing a toothache. The chocolate sphere, on the other hand, was perhaps a bit too mushy. While the menu’s description sounded akin to a lava cake, the combo of the chocolate mousse sphere and the warm coffee chocolate bisque (think of the chocolate elixir from Kakawa for an analog) lacked balance. Of course, the chocolate flavors were there, it just would have been nice to get some texture variety.
Again, though, Rodriguez’s version of TerraCotta is new, and if this is him working out the kinks, he’s already well on his way. If you need the booze, hold off and call ahead. If it’s a delicious meal and expedient, friendly service you desire, wine or no, throw this one on the list.
