Full disclosure: I was there in the old days of 315 Restaurant & Wine Bar, back when it first opened under the name Bistro 315 as an eight-table joint with a killer wine list. My uncle Jeffrey was its inaugural manager, when then-co-owners Matt Yohalem of Il Piatto and Jack Schaab had just kicked things off, though he hasn’t worked there in eons, so there’s no conflict of interest or anything. In fact, if you cut to today and the restaurant’s direction and quality after decades under longtime current owner/chef Louis Moskow, it’s easy to say 315 is the best it’s ever been in so many ways—something I relearned for, like, the fifth time after a recent weeknight dinner.
But first, let’s check in with Moskow, who is admittedly feeling pretty sporty about the notable 30 years of 315.
“We’re feeling a little venerable,” Moskow says, “without feeling overly confident. I don’t want to sound arrogant, but things continue to go well and I am pleased to continue to have a job I find very rewarding.”
He should, too, if my recent dinner indicates the current vibe at 315. This spot is everything you want from a romantic eatery: dim lights, huge wine list (though I don’t much drink these days, and I’m just saying so for all the oenophiles out there who somehow don’t already know and love this place), expected but perfected menu items and seasonal changes based on what Moskow can get fresh locally. Honestly, if a restaurant can check even a few of my boxes, I’m usually happy, whereas 315 exceeded them across the board.
My companion and I arrived on a Tuesday night without reservations. And though the dining rooms were jumping with lively conversation, large parties and a convivial ambiance, we didn’t have to wait for our table. Perhaps it would be a different story when it comes to a summer weekend, but we were poring over the appetizer list within minutes of our arrival. 315 boasts a number of cheese and charcuterie apps, plus foie gras and even a sage and brown butter ravioli. None of those quite whet our appetite, which makes the seafood menu a stellar place to look for a starter. We selected crispy scallops ($20), an enticing dish similar to calamari in its crispiness, but far better than the greasy rings of oh-so-many eateries. These were the smaller scallops (shout-out to a nice sear on a big fat scallop, though), and as delicious as you like with sides of cocktail sauce and lemon aioli. We both preferred the latter dipping accoutrement, though there was something to be said for the kick of the cocktail sauce as a counterbalance to the crisp breading and buttery, melty insides of the scallops themselves. For $20, we practically got a small bucketfull, too, which seemed generous at the time, even if we both ate them so fast our heads spun.
Alex De Vore
For our main dishes, my companion went halfsies on a bowl of porcini mushroom soup with goat cheese strudel and mushroom duxelles—an utter triumph of creamy richness and earthy mushroom flavor ($18)—and the house-made cavatelli with cremini mushrooms, artichoke hearts and spinach served in a black truffle cream ($20; $36 for the full dish). The flaky strudel served atop the soup soaked up some of the thick, creamy goodness, but stood strong and instead became a third thing; a most satisfying combination of crispy and soft textures and tangy cheese. The cavatelli was also a delight, from the almost decadent truffle flavor and the freshness of the pasta.
Combining two smaller plates that way was a stroke of brilliance, truly, particularly since I wanted about six different things myself. In the end, though, I opted for the steak frites ($45). It’s a classic dish, and one for which 315 is kind of famous locally. I can see why, from the absolute mountain of frites to the tender steak cooked to a sublime medium rare. I can’t often drop $45 for a steak, but when I do, it’s nice to not be disappointed. I’d honestly put 315’s up against most steakhouses in town at this moment (save Market Steer, whose chef Kathleen Crook still boasts the best steak I’ve tasted anywhere on this Earth), and it seems a testament to Moskow’s ethos: Give the patrons what they want to a point, but bring them something unexpected, too.
To wit? Those scallops, or Moskow’s beef bourguignon, about which I’ve practically heard folks wax poetic.
“We’re definitely a local’s restaurant more than a tourist restaurant, and I feel like no one is doing anything like what we’re doing, and we’re not doing anything like what anyone else is doing,” Moskow says. “I’m still fully inspired—I love to cater to my clientele, support local farmers and keep my menu seasonal. We give them what they want to a degree, but we also try new things.”
Sadly, this didn’t seem to extend to the dessert menu, which included the requisite creme brulee, flourless chocolate cake and so on. To its credit, 315 makes its own ice cream, which I’m sure is probably delicious, it’s just that I’m looking for more innovative desserts these days when possible. Still, this isn’t a measure of quality so much as it’s me being a precious little guy. All the same, I must salute our server, Kira, as well. She truly hit the sweet spot between sincerity and light-heartedness without erring into the world of server fakery. Hey, Kira? You nailed it.
And that spirit of nailing it goes for pretty much everything else at 315. Oh, sure, it’s bigger now than it has ever been, and I fully concede that your average person won’t splurge on a restaurant like this regularly. Still, when one can, don’t forget about 315. I mean, hey, it’s been there for 30 years; through recessions and pandemics and an ever-changing Santa Fe culinary scene. But it’s faithful and clearly stocked to the rafters with workers (and ownership) who care deeply about doing something meaningful with food. Moskow tells SFR he recently signed another five-year lease on the space, so you’ll have at least that long to get in before anything changes. My guess, however, is that he’ll keep it going as long as is physically possible.
“We’re happy to fulfill that responsibility,” Moskow adds. “We’re nothing without [out patrons]. Tehy’re the whole reason we continue to do this.”
In a word: PRICY
Reservations: (505) 986-9190
