The Basque region, along Spain's north-central coast, is most famous for the completely unique language spoken there. The Basque language, so far as people who study this stuff can tell, isn't related to any other language on earth. Basque food, however, is closely related to the Spanish cuisine of the northern coast, relying heavily on fresh seafood, abundant produce and, of course, olives and olive oil.
But still, finding a Basque restaurant or a Basque cookbook in this country is about as hard as finding one of the rare few Basque speakers. One notable exception is Teresa Barrenechea, a native of the region, who is the former chef and owner of the well-regarded Marichu restaurant in New York. A few years ago, Barrenechea, a friend of Mark Miller of Coyote Café, came out to Santa Fe for the Wine and Chile Fiesta. She gave a little talk and a luncheon, accompanied by Spanish
rosés
, in Chimayó. I can't remember exactly what the menu was, but I remember thinking, as I gulped down each course, that the Basques had it goin' on!
This week you'll have two chances to experience the food of this region for yourself. The Basque Club of New Mexico is holding an evening of tapas and wine, 6-9 pm Saturday, March 11. Local chefs and caterers will be preparing little tapas for you to nibble on. Expect goodies from Chef James Campbell Caruso of El Farol, Marilyn G Johns of Verdi's, Emily Swantner (Chef/Owner of Epicurean Odyssey), Chef Adrian Perez and others. Call Manuel Monasterio (505-983-8699) or drop by The Spanish Table (109 N. Guadalupe St., 986-0243) for information and tickets.
Secondly, well, I sort of mislead you here because this Basque food you'll have to cook yourself. But Harvard Common Press has re-released Teresa Barrenechea's 1998 cookbook,
The Basque Table
, in an affordable ($16.95) paperback form. The book contains 130 mouth-watering recipes that will have you cooking (if not speaking) like a Basque in no time. Here are two recipes, including Barrenechea's notes on them, to get you started.
Smoked Salmon and Asparagus Pinchos
Pincho de Espárrago y Salmon
If you have never tried canned white asparagus from Navarra, you are in for a treat. I think it is better than most fresh asparagus, which is saying a lot because I generally prefer fresh vegetables. However, the Navarrans are well known for their superior canned products, and the white asparagus is the shining star in this galaxy.
5 thin slices smoked salmon, each about 8 inches long and 4 inches wide
5 canned white asparagus spears or cooked fresh white asparagus
5 tablespoons mayonnaise
10 (¼- to ½-inch thick) slices from a slender, European-style baguette, lightly toasted
1)
Cut each slice of salmon in half to make 10 pieces, each about 4 inches square.
2)
Cut each asparagus spear in half crosswise, then slit each half lengthwise without cutting all the way through.
3)
Spread a little mayonnaise on each slice of baguette. (Do not use all the mayonnaise.)
4)
Spread the remaining mayonnaise in the slits in the asparagus. Wrap each asparagus spear with a slice of smoked salmon and place a wrapped spear on each slice of toast. Serve immediately.
Lentil-Chorizo Soup
Sopa de Lentejas con Chorizo
Lentils are included in many Basque dishes, particularly those served during the cold months. When I was growing up, we spent nine months of the year in the capital city of Bilbao, where my six brothers and sisters and I filled the house with noisy activity. As was the custom then, we had domestic help and also a live-in German instructor, which meant that my parents' household included eleven or twelve persons. The pots and pans in our kitchen were not much smaller than those in restaurants today, and got nearly as much use. Rich, warming soups like this one were often cooking on the stove.
Serves 6
½ pound brown lentils
3 whole chorizo sausages (about ½ pound)
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
3 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
2 medium carrots, cut into thin rounds
1 green bell pepper, halved and seeded
1 red bell pepper, halved and seeded
1 onion, minced
Salt, to taste
1)
Put the lentils into a medium flameproof casserole or other pot, cover them with about 4 cups of water and soak them for about 8 hours.
2)
Drain the lentils and return them to the casserole. Add enough cold water to cover them by 2 to 3 inches. Bring the lentils and water to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to low and add the chorizo sausages and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Cook the lentils over very low heat for 1 hour.
3)
Add the potatoes, carrots and green and red peppers and cook for about 20 minutes longer, until the vegetables are fork-tender.
4)
In a small skillet, heat the remaining ¼ cup olive oil over medium heat and cook the onion for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring, until it is softened. Add the onion and the oil to the soup, mix well and cook for about 10 minutes, until the flavors blend. Cut each chorizo in half and serve 1 piece to a bowl. Season to taste with salt and serve. (You can purée leftover soup in a food processor or blender and serve it hot, topped with croutons.)
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