It's one of those blessedly rare rainy and cold autumn days today and, as I write this, I've got two eggplants and a kabocha squash in the oven. I have no idea yet what I'll do with either of them, but I haven't switched on the furnace yet and I figured I could heat up the house if I put something-anything-in the oven.
Actually, I'm pretty sure what I'll do with the eggplant. It's the same thing I always make: some variation on Barbara Tropp's Strange Flavor Eggplant. If you have this late, great San Francisco chef's China Moon Cookbook, then look it up and use the real recipe. Otherwise, it's easy enough to replicate. Just roast a couple of eggplants until they're squishy. Scoop the goop out and drop it in a food processor. Whirl. Get out the wok and stir fry some garlic, ginger, red pepper flakes and shallots (if you have them) in peanut or sesame oil. Toss in a little brown sugar and soy sauce. Add the eggplant and stir until it's heated through. Depending on the ratio of eggplant to other stuff, you'll end up with either a highly spiced dip or a subtle side dish. Don't worry about exact measurements. Be creative. Taste as you go.
About the kabocha squash-have you ever had it? It's been less than a decade since these Japanese winter squashes have become common in our grocery stores. Although there are several varieties in the kabocha family, the one you'll see most often is a short, squat, striped and bumpy sort of ugly dark green thing. But inside! Ooh, the flesh is super sweet and not at all stringy. Maybe I'll puree it and stir it into a flan or a coconut milk custard with long-grained sticky rice. The possibilities are endless. They're in the markets now, so pick one up and experiment. Squash are cheap!
Speakin' of freakin' affordable, I finally made it over to Counter Culture for dinner. This little place on Baca Street, just off of Cerrillos Road, has been serving a reasonably priced breakfast and lunch menu for a while now (SFR's 1999-2000 Restaurant of the Year), so it should be no surprise that dinner here follows the same pattern. The most expensive thing on the menu the night I went with friends was a $15 hanger steak with wild mushroom demi-glace and roasted garlic mashed potatoes but none of us ordered it because the other offerings were so much more interesting.
We also passed on a tempting calamari Caesar ($10) and bouillabaisse with saffron aioli ($12) for a grilled ahi tuna that came parked on a bed of greens, topped with those fried white noodles that are as light and crunchy as Styrofoam (though they do taste markedly better) and ribbons of sweet and nutty sesame aioli. On the side was a dollop of exceptionally good mango chutney. Far better than that jar of Major Grey's in your fridge, Counter Culture's chutney is fresher, lighter and much, much more addictive.
A reasonable portion of grilled salmon was parked on a bed of perfectly tender French lentils; the leek Pernod cream sauce gave the whole thing just enough richness and moisture and frizzled leeks provided a fun crunch. It's nice to eat lentils prepared well, isn't it? Especially when the new government Food Pyramid is exhorting us to eat more legumes (lentils, peanuts, peas and soybeans are all members of this mysterious family). The only thing missing from the plate was a green vegetable, so I ordered a side of sautéed kale, which was tender but not soggy and full of flavor.
Not as impressive was an entrée of curried vegetables with more of those tender French lentils, that scrumptious mango chutney and a light and bright cucumber yogurt raita. I say not as impressive because everything on the plate except the curried vegetables was delicious. But if it's a plate of curried vegetables, shouldn't the curried vegetables be the best part? What arrived seemed to be mostly potatoes, and those thick chunks didn't have much curry flavor. Too bad.
There were only two other disappointments of the evening. First, Counter Culture doesn't take credit cards; in an era when you can swipe in taxis, at craft fairs and the movies, people don't expect to have to pay cash at a sit-down restaurant. Also, although they have a nice little wine list, they serve the stuff in what appear to be juice glasses. Real wine deserves real glasses.
Those minor gripes aside, I can highly recommend Counter Culture for dinner. The laid-back gallery atmosphere, welcoming staff and creative food makes this little place one of the best values in town.
Counter Culture
930 Baca St.
995-1105
8 am-3 pm, 5 pm-9 pm Tuesday-Saturday
Cash and check only
Tell me where to eat! I need your input. Send all of your tips, gripes and raves to food@sfreporter.com.
