I am so completely obsessed with food that my mental map of Santa Fe is anchored entirely by restaurants-and these are connected by streets that I only sometimes know by name. So for me, the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum is that thing next to the O'Keeffe Café, Canyon Road is just the street I take to El Farol and the Oldest House is the muddy little house in the alley off of whatever street it is that 315, Pink Adobe and Rio Chama are on. Of course I'm exaggerating-but only a little. The truth is I am embarrassed to admit I never noticed the Oldest House in Santa Fe before I made a trip to the new Mission Café. I am proud to say I now know that what I thought was just an alley actually has a name (it's East DeVargas) and the church on the corner at Old Santa Fe Trail does too (it's the San Miguel Mission). Sometimes you discover the most amazing things on your way out for coffee!
I'm actually sending this column in from France, where I have not seen the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, the tunnel where Princess Di was killed, nor any of the so-called important sights. But in the course of running errands all over Paris today, I've eaten a delicious buckwheat crêpe filled with ham, cheese and fried potatoes, drunk a glass of shockingly good Brouilly that cost only 2 euros, and discovered a neighborhood full of North African restaurants that I intend to revisit for dinner tonight. Louvre schmouvre.
Meanwhile, back in Santa Fe, the Mission Café inhabits a building owned by Carolyn Sigstedt, who bought it from Joe Valdez about 10 years ago. (It had been in his family since the late 1800s.) Back then she was a serigraph printer and she used part of the building as a printing shop and part as living space for her family. But after she sold the serigraph business, the studio seemed less useful and she rented the space out. Until it closed in April, the building housed Jane's Coffee Shop.
When Jane's left, Sigstedt told me, she began to toy with the idea of running her own café, so she decided to pay a visit to the Department of Environmental Health. She spoke to a woman at the department and asked her if she knew of anyone who was looking for a space or if she knew anyone who could help her figure out what it would take to do it on her own. Sigstedt left empty-handed, but soon after that a woman named Cindy Barreras walked in and happened to ask the same woman if she knew of anyone with a building for lease because she wanted to open a café. That kind lady put Barreras in touch with Sigstedt and the two decided to go into business together. "We're just incredibly well-suited," Sigstedt says.
Barreras had been the owner of El Rio Café in Santa Fe Village and had years of restaurant experience; Sigstedt had a historic building and the funds to completely renovate it. Together they converted the residential part of the house into a commercial kitchen designed to Barreras' specifications. "It's like an Airstream [trailer], this kitchen," Sigstedt says, describing the incredible efficiency it provides in a small space.
The dining room has smooth-plastered walls dotted with serigraphs left over from Sigstedt's previous life (they are not for sale) and the furniture is hand-carved and hand-painted at a co-operative in Mexico. The warm lighting makes for a tranquil effect. Around a corner is the community room where groups can gather for business meetings; it has a fireplace and a table that seats up to 18 people. Outside are two patios for warm weather lounging (or smokers wearing coats).
Sigstedt describes her philosophy as "business at its best for the 21st century," and says she strives for food that is affordable, high quality, natural, organic and local whenever possible. Thankfully, much of that actually is possible. The Mission Café's coffee is fair trade from Red Rock Roasters, the soda from Way 2 Cool, the ice cream from Tara's and the pies from Josie's. Barreras' food comes from her grandmother's recipes and has been honed after years of practice, both at home and at work. There are breakfast tacos filled with eggs, bacon, sausage and chile for $6.95 and handheld burritos for $4.95, along with a variety of sandwiches, soups and salads.
Even if you're not hungry, the Mission Café is worth checking out just for a beverage. Besides the aforementioned coffee and sodas, the café serves Santa Fe Cider's organic sparkling cider, an extremely elegant option. They also have Tea Forte's eye-catching tea bags: silky white pyramids filled with tea leaves. At the end of the tea bag's cord is a tiny green leaf. Walk around with a cup full of the stuff and people will stop and ask you what you've got. Tell them you got it at this funky little place near the Oldest House in Santa Fe.
Mission Café and Sweet Shop
239 E. DeVargas St.
983-3033
Tuesday-Saturday 7 am-6 pm; Sunday-Monday 7 am-2 pm
Tell me where to eat! I need your input. Send all of your tips, gripes and raves to food@sfreporter.com.
