
Courtesy Image
A&C
Perhaps it will come as no surprise to Santa Fe's food faithful, but a number of local chefs have once again made it to the semifinalists round of the James Beard Awards.
This year's cohort of semifinalists include Escondido's Fernando Ruiz, Sassella's Christian Pontiggia and Joseph's Culinary Pub's Joseph Wrede, all of whom landed in the Best Chef: Southwest category. That particular category has proven quite friendly to Santa Fe chefs over the years, too, with The Compound's Mark Kiffin being nominated numerous times (not to mention winning the dang thing in 2005); Sazón's Fernando Olea winning the prize in 2022; and Zacatlán's Eduardo Rodriguez and Dolina's Annamaria Brezna picking up nods in 2024. Last year also found Alkeme at Open Kitchen from chefs Hue-Chan Karels and Erica Tai hitting the semifinalist list for Best New Restaurant.
Of course, this is just the semifinalist round and there's a lot of fight left before the finalists are announced this April and the ultimate ceremony pops off in Chicago this June. Still, it's another feather in Santa Fe's culinary cap and proof positive that we can restaurant with the best of 'em.
"I didn't know anything about it until people started calling me, texting me, messaging me," Ruiz tells SFR of his place on the list. "For my name to be with the names of these other guys...it's a good feeling, and I never imagined I'd be nominated, let alone on this list with these Southwestern chefs. I'm pretty sure I'm the only chef on this list who has been to prison for trafficking guns and drugs—the only ex-convict who is...working with ex-cons. It's like, should I even be on this list? It's an honor."
In regards to ex-cons, Ruiz is a co-founder of the Entrepreneurial Institute of New Mexico, a nonprofit through which he and his his fellow co-founder Ralph Martinez help formerly incarcerated folks re-enter society and find work after serving time. Outside of that work, Ruiz's food has certainly impressed SFR staffers. Take The Fork who, in August, when Escondido opened down Agua Fría Street, wrote that, "There’s not really a wrong way to get down with Ruiz’s tacos."
Meanwhile, Sassella chef Christian Pontiggia tells SFR that the recognition comes at a strange time—when Sassella has been closed for some weeks after a burst water pipe caused damage to the Johnson Street the restaurant.
"For me it's a little bit like....I worked hard for it, for sure, but it's weird to have my nomination in there when the restaurant is closed," Pontiggia says. "Still, it feels great, and it's not just about the food, it's about the collaborations you do—like, for me, I'm a big fan of working with the Cooking With Kids program...and I have some projects in my pocket I can't talk about yet."
The Cooking With Kids nonprofit aims to educate kids about healthier choices, as well as how to go about preparing them while connecting them with knowledgable food pros, such as chefs like Pontiggia. As for Sassella, Pontiggia says, he can't name a reopen date yet, though he's currently wending his way through the insurance process and hopes to have an announcement soon.
"I have every intention of staying in Santa Fe," he adds.
Over at Joseph's Culinary Pub, the recognition marks the second time for Wrede, who made the list, he says, some 21 years ago with his since-closed Taos eatery Jospeh's Table.
"Any time you get any kind of confirmation of your hard work, it feels good," he says. "I felt disappointed last year when my team wasn't recognized, so it's cool—and there are a lot of chefs who deserve this award, I know."
Wrede is quick to point out how his staff made the nod possible.
"Oh, it's perfectly clear to me after 30 years—let's see...Joseph's table started in'95, so yeah, 35 years—I know what it means to play with really good players," he says. "It's like a band: It sounds better, tastes better, feels better when when you 're playing with good players. This is my art form."