May is Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month and with the 50-year anniversary of the fall of Saigon fresh in our memories, SFR recently toured local Vietnamese fare.
Santa Fe is home to three cafes specializing in Vietnam’s most popular dish, pho. Note: The English word for the beef and noodle soup does NOT rhyme with foe. In fact, if you pronounced pho properly and added a “ck” to the end with your dear old granny around, she might wash your mouth out with soap.
With that in mind, my latest stop on the local pho tour is Pho Kim. Yes, the name is on purpose. There are many Pho Kim’s across these United States for that very reason. My previous home, Oklahoma City, is home to a popular spot called Pho Kim Long.
Pho primer
If you’re a pho veteran, skip ahead. Never had pho? Understand this: its soul lies is in the broth—typically derived from beef bones cooked overnight. Pho ga is the chicken alternative, and vegetarian and vegan variations can also be found. Proteins finish in the hot broth—rare steak and brisket are the two most common additions, but sausage, seafood and offal are also popular.
Next in order of importance is the noodles. Basic pho comes with flat rice noodles, but there are variations with glass noodles, egg noodles and others. Finally, there must be condiments. Piles of fresh cilantro, culantro, Thai basil, bean sprouts and chile slices are a must. Optional additions include hoisin sauce, sriracha and chili sauce.
The soup arrives hot, and your next move is to drop as much or all of the accoutrements as you can into the bowl. Use chopsticks to blend everything together and pluck out noodles. A spoon comes with the bowl for the broth. Final tip: tuck a napkin into your collar if you’re wearing a shirt or blouse you don’t want dotted with memories of your lunch.
Pho Tour
Dave Cathey
Pho Kim, 919 W Alameda St.: Sporting the bawdy name and most comprehensive menu among Santa Fe’s Vietnamese restaurants, it was hard to settle on pho after seeing bun hoi and banh mi on the menu. I settled on Pho Dac Biet ($19.79), which dabbles in many of the various available proteins (beef, sausage, seafood, tendon). The broth was rich with fat, but that ultimately stopped me from finishing the entire bowl. On the down side, the herb platter was a little puny, and the Vietnamese coffee was a nah.
Dave Cathey
Saigon Cafe, 501 Cordova Rd: This spot tucked into El Mercado Plaza has the sparest options among our local pho purveyors, but the broth is on point. I tried the Pho Bo ($14.95), which was the only version on the menu served with flat rice noodles. Meantime, Saigon Cafe has a wide selection of hot and sour soups and vegetarian options. Saigon also has an array of catfish preparations that look super enticing.
Dave Cathey
Pho Ava, 2430 Cerillos Rd.: This nook in the corner of the College Plaza South is my favorite spot for pho so far. The pho options are broader than those at Saigon Cafe but not as extensive as Pho Kim. However, the broth at Pho Ava spoke to me most clearly. I tried the Pho Tai Bo Vien (rare steak and meatballs/$15.95). The herb platter was full, the noodles on point and Pho Ava is the only noodle bar with a paleta shop next door.
Alternatives
Dave Cathey
Alas, Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage is an opportunity for culinary celebration of more than pho alone. For one thing, Alkeme at Open Kitchen, 227 Don Gaspar Ave., features Vietnamese and Pan-Asian cuisine, but no pho. However, it’s home to the best Vietnamese coffee I’ve come across, albeit in the form of dessert. Typically a strong cup of joe diluted with shaved ice and cut with condensed milk, Alkeme converts the beverage into a variation on flan chefs Hue-Chan Karels and Erica Tai call Banh Flan Ca Phe.
Dave Cathey
Pho isn’t the only hot, brothy resting place for noodles in Santa Fe. Japanese ramen is alive and well. Over at Fun Noodle Bar, 514 W Cordova Rd., I found a fine iteration of Dan Dan noodles (($12.49) in a hot, brothy bowl.
Dave Cathey
For a broth-free bowl of Pacific Islander cuisine, swing by Catch Poke in Capital Coal food hall. The Spicy Tuna ($16) with Takis is divine, but so is the Leche de Tigre Salmon ($16).
If you can only celebrate Asian cuisine once this month, do it with dumplings. Where better to raise a dumpling in toast than Dumpling Cafe, 500 Sandoval St., which also features dynamite Wonton Soup ($12.99).
Mary Francis Cheeseman
If you’ve never had a vegetable momo, have you even really lived?
And don’t forget about India and the Indian subcontinent for some completely different Asian flavors. Tulsi, 839 Paseo de Peralta, is just out of gestation downtown, and Tibet Kitchen, 2003 S St. Francis Dr., is your spot for house-made momos ($12.99).
