Joy Godfrey
Clockwise, from top left: scallops and lotus root with red pepper coulis; summer vegetable curry; bhe puri with puffed rice and mango; sambar, coconut chutney, tomato chutney; mushroom medley
When food makes you feel good—not stuffed, not slow, not sleepy—it's a wonderful thing. Chef Paulraj Karuppasamy and his wife and business partner Nellie Tischler started their South Indian food venture as a pop-up concept and have since gone all-in on a brick-and-mortar restaurant, where a recent visit found them celebrating their 10th wedding anniversary with an end-of-shift meal on the restaurant's pleasant patio. They, of course, went immediately back to work. Dosas are huge pancakes made from a fermented batter, stuffed with a bevy of healthy ingredients from traditional to adventurous. The menu is a flavor explosion and the $35 tasting option is a smart one. The classic masala dosa ($10) is a great introduction, though the dish lends itself to sharing and the menu's variety makes choosing anything that sounds good a safe bet. The lightly fried kale and onion pakora ($9) is a comfortably spiced, crunchy appetizer that benefits from a tasty eggplant chutney. The peach and avocado salad ($9) comes atop a butter and fancy-lettuce combo and is tossed with a peach-cilantro dressing and pumpkin seeds. Add a selection of curries as well as thicker uttapam pancakes, and you'll be glad to you tried something new—while likely finding a favorite that will keep you coming back.
551 W Cordova Road, 930-5521
Dinner Tuesday-Sunday
Twitter: @paper_dosa
Instagram: @paperdosa
