Joy Godfrey
Grimaldi Farms guinea hen with Swiss chard and Madeira caramelized baby onions, porcini gnocchi, shaved Italian black truffle and hen glaze
It may not be a choice for everyday dining, but this Canyon Road destination should be at the top of the list for special occasions. First course selections include the savory corn and herb soufflé ($22), a satisfyingly puffy and light starter that's well worth the disclosed 12-minute wait, and an arugula salad with toasted pecans and feta drizzled with a house-made roasted plum dressing ($15). Beer, cocktails and wine served from the sunken bar astound as well, with one part mixology, one part careful curation and one part devotion to the craft of fine drink. Main courses, however, will fight for your attention thanks to James Beard Award-winning chef Mark Kiffin, whose inspired selections like organic Scottish salmon on a bed of peas, chanterelle mushrooms and cannellini beans ($34) melt in your mouth in an explosion of complementary flavors and textures. Try the grilled angus tenderloin ($46), as promised, one of the juiciest and best-cooked steaks around. For dessert, while the bittersweet ganache tart with cardamom spiced cherries, coffee espuma and chevre mousse vies for your affections ($10), it hardly gets better than the creme brulee ($9), a simple mainstay on most fine-dining menus, but a perfect end to an almost assuredly perfect meal.
653 A Canyon Road, 982-4353
Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday;
dinner only on Sunday
